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Old 03-17-2009, 07:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Make your own Laundry Detergent and save

22oz washing soda
7.5 oz baking soda
8 oz OxyClean Free
10 drops of Essential Oil of your choice, (Lavender or Tea Tree Oil preferably)

Mix all together in a Jar with a fork and use 1/8 of a cup per load of laundry.

Cost analysis:

$2-1 box of washing powder(55oz),
$0.39-1 box (sm) baking soda
2 cups of the Oxy Clean Free (big tub for $5, it has 56 oz in it)


So about 80 loads for 3 bucks


It doesn't suds up so you can use it in your front loader or top loader, it gets your whites clean!! Good for cloth diapers too
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
witly verbiage hear

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where do you get washing soda? and what is it?
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Atia and I have used Arm & Hammer Washing Soda for a number of things...but never thought to mix our own laundry detergent from it.

Live and learn! Thanks!
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:56 PM   #5 (permalink)
witly verbiage hear

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hey i just did a little google search and read up on washing soda. its sodium carbonate and it is caustic so direct contact with your skin will burn you -- wear gloves when making your own laundry detergent.

the baking soda will neutralize the causticity of the washing soda -- which is why you blend them together.
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Vivianne Draper View Post
where do you get washing soda? and what is it?

It's a bit stronger than baking soda.

https://www.allinkosher.com/p-31676-...oda-55-oz.aspx

Oh good, you got the info. I don't touch it and I use a fork to mix in the EO.
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't touch it and I use a fork to mix in the EO.
Just don't eat with the fork afterward
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Aww I was hoping for a good old fashion civil war era lye soap recipe
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Here is a soap making recipe. (Actually they have lots of fabulous soap making stuffs at this site); Handmade Soap Making Recipes, Mineral Makeup Recipes, Bath and Body Recipes, and Toiletry Making Recipes.

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR COLD PROCESS SOAP- BASE RECIPE I
This is an easy, mild olive oil soap, good for beginners.

Recipe: (Makes 8 lbs.)
24 oz. olive oil
24 oz. coconut oil
38 oz. vegetable shortening (Crisco)
12 oz. lye
32 oz. distilled water
3-4 oz. any essential or fragrance oil

Equipment Needed:Scale that weighs in pounds and ounces
Large one-gal. stainless steel or enamel pot (use this exclusively for soap-making)
Two plastic pitchers, 2-3 qt. size
Hand stick blender (optional, but makes tracing much easier)
Plastic measuring cup 2-3 cup size
Two wooden or plastic spoons (one for the lye and one for the oils. Use these
exclusively for soap-making)
Two kitchen thermometers (one for the lye and one for the oils - must read to
over 100 degrees)
Rubber gloves
Safety goggles
Clear plastic container with snap-on lid 8" x 11" x 3" deep, or wooden soap mold
lined with freezer paper
Large piece of cardboard the size of the wooden mold - used as a lid
Old blanket
Freezer paper or plastic garbage bags

Remember: Be sure to allow for the weight of the containers. Lye (Sodium Hydroxide NaOH) All ingredients should be weighed.
Begin by putting on your goggles and rubber gloves and weigh out 12 ozs. of lye into one of the plastic containers. Weigh out 32 oz of distilled water into the other container. Slowly and in a steady stream pour the lye into the water, stirring until dissolved. Do this in a well ventilated area and try not to splash. Let the lye/water mixture sit until the temperature reaches between 100-125 degrees (unless otherwise stated by the recipe you are using). This may take several hours, but if you're in a hurry you can place the container in a cold water bath to bring down the temperature quicker.
In the meantime, get your oils ready by weighing out 24 oz. of coconut oil and 38 oz. of vegetable shortening and placing them into your pot. Heat them up just until they melt and then remove from heat and add the 24 ozs. of olive oil. Stir to incorporate and put one of the thermometers into the pot to check the temperature. The oils will also have to be between 100-125 degrees (unless otherwise stated by the recipe you are using). Both the lye/water mixture and the oils will have to be at the same temperature before incorporating them.
Prepare your additives. Start with just 3-4 ozs. of essential oil or a combination of essential oils (blend). *Note- (some essential oil scents are stronger, so use less, some are lighter and you may add more depending on your preference). Also, measure 1/4 cup of any dried herbs or flowers (optional). Its best to start simple for your first batch. You can also add 1-3 tablespoons of pigment (optional) for coloring.

Grease the clear plastic container that you're using as your mold and place a piece of freezer paper on the bottom of the container for easy release OR line the container with a plastic garbage bag
. If you are using our wooden soap mold, line it with freezer paper.
Check the temperature of the lye and oils. When they reach between 90-100°, its time to "make soap." Slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oils, stirring continuously. You may continue to stir using a spoon or switch to the stick blender. Stir or blend in all the lye and you will begin to see the mixture thicken. Just as the mixture thickens to the point where you see tracks or "trace" in the soap, add essential oils and any dried ingredients or colorants. Remove about 2 cups of the mixture and add the colorant to the 2 cups. Then add that back into the pot. Continue to stir or blend until you see designs on the top of the soap (this is known as tracing and can happen in 10-40 minutes depending on the temperature of your mixture). Quickly add the mixture to the mold. Cover with the lid. *Note* if the soap mixture does not fill the mold to the top, place a piece of freezer paper on top of the soap and then put the lid or a piece of cardboard on the container. This will prevent soda ash. Wrap in blankets and place in an undisturbed area for 18 hrs. Remove the blankets and lid and leave the soap in the mold for another 12 hrs.
You should have a nice hard block of fresh soap which you can now remove from the mold. Let the block of soap sit for a day to firm up or slice into bars or chunks immediately. Then place bars in an open box or drying rack for 2 weeks or longer. Don't allow the bars to touch one another. The soap should be cured completely after 2 weeks, but the longer it cures, the milder and harder it will be.
Tip: We offer many helpful books on the subject of cold-process soap-making. Good instruction and preparation is the key to being successful with your first batch. Good Luck, and happy soaping!
Sodium Hydroxide can be purchased online at:
View free soapmaking video
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah, I won't make my own soap with Lye. If I am going to do that, I would just use a melt and pour glycerin base.

How to make Glycerin Melt and Pour soap at home
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Old 03-18-2009, 01:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I know it may seem like a silly question, but is this hypo-allergenic? Hubby and I are sensitive to most laundry soaps. We've had the best luck with Arm and Hammer so far.

If it is, this will save me 8 dollars everytime I need to buy laundry soap.
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Old 03-18-2009, 02:55 PM   #12 (permalink)
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All our clothes are black here at the compound. Will this recipe keep our blacks black?
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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The oxyclean is another version of Non Chlorine Bleach (which is color safe) and we have sensitive skin here. There are no fragrances besides whatever Essential Oil you use.
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Old 03-19-2009, 10:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Will olive oil work?
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Will olive oil work?
No. Essential Oils are different than cooking oils.

Essential oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Quote:
Because of their concentrated nature, essential oils generally should not be applied directly to the skin in their undiluted or "neat" form. Some can cause severe irritation, or provoke an allergic reaction. Instead, essential oils should be blended with a vegetable-based "carrier" oil (a.k.a., a base, or "fixed" oil) before being applied. Common carrier oils include olive, almond, hazelnut and grapeseed. Only neutral oils should be used. Common ratio of essential oil disbursed in a carrier oil is 0.5–3% (most under 10%), and depends on its intended purpose.
Also, the EO is really an optional thing. I like both lavender and tea tree oil for their medicinal benefits. They are both very fresh smelling to me. Olive oil would be considered a carrier oil.
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Old 03-19-2009, 11:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Uhm, I think Chance is, as usual, being facetious.

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Old 03-20-2009, 01:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Uhm, I think Chance is, as usual, being facetious.

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I have actually have had that asked of me in a serious manner. So I try not to assume. LOL
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:51 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Old 03-20-2009, 01:53 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Even if I'm ignorant, people will just assume I know and am being sarcastic. I cheat at forums.

lol. I didn't know the difference until I started researching it.
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Old 04-05-2009, 07:55 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Sudsing version

1 bar of fels naptha (or ivory) soap finely grated or finely food processed
2 cups of washing soda
2 cups of borax

Use 2TBSP to 1/4 of a cup per large load

You can either leave it like this, or you can make a liquid.

For doing a liquid

Melt the fels naptha in 1 quart of water over low heat. Add the borax and washing soda. Stir until it is free from lumps Either put it into a bucket with a lid or a reclaimed laundry soap bottle. Add enough water to make 1 gallon. Let it sit overnight (it will gel)
Shake gently before use or stir before using
Use 1/8 of a cup to 1/2 of a cup depending on your water hardness.


This DOES have fragrance if you use fels naptha, but not if you use ivory.

Last edited by Mocksoup Graves; 04-05-2009 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:32 AM   #21 (permalink)
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One thing I will not skimp on is soap to either was my body or my clothing. If I had to take a cheaper route, I would shop at a Dollar type store. They have laundry soap in there for $1 that should do about 20loads. So you say mixing it yourself gives you 55 loads for $3. Dollar stores give you 60 loads for $3.
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Old 04-06-2009, 10:39 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Dollar stores give you 60 loads for $3.
But, it's the cheapest, nastiest, worst-smelling detergent on the market.
.
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Old 04-06-2009, 12:49 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Yeah, this isn't skimping on anything. It is a cleaning alternative. I have been using this on diapers and if it can get those sparkling clean, I highly doubt it is skimping on anything.

The main problem is that we have forgotten how to do things ourselves. This stuff isn't new, this is what our grandmothers and great grandmothers used to use.
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Old 04-07-2009, 08:19 AM   #24 (permalink)
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1 year of laundry detergent for ONLY $19.99

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Old 04-07-2009, 01:08 PM   #25 (permalink)
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So, you want to pay about 5 times a much for a gimmick? You obviously haven't been that poor before.
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