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Vertigo Paris

Those that have been in the chat room during the past couple days have heard me talking about the SCA and how the persona I play is a woman from 16th century Spain. They have also heard me going on about having to make a dress that is modeled after gowns that were worn in that time period. So I am going to be using this thread as my progress report., not only for my own sense of accomplishment but a few have expressed to be kept in the loop through pictures as the dress progresses. So this is the first step in that process!

First was deciding on what type of dress to make. 16th Century was an exciting time in the world, especially in Spain. As such, I have a wealth of designs to choose from. I could lean towards an Italian Renaissance with the high waist and flowing skirts or I could go more towards the shapely Elizabethan. There were also some influences from the Moors but that didn’t really interest me all that much. Being a woman of size, Italian Rens aren’t all that flattering in most cases and since I was looking to walk into a room and have jaws hit the floor, that left me with only one real choice: the Elizabethan.

With that decision made, I now needed to find the pattern or a pattern that was similar in style and could lend itself to some heavy modifications. As I was doing some research with some friends, we remembered Margo Anderson and her line of patterns. Margo Anderson is very well known in the sewing industry as well as the re-enactment community not only for her exhaustive research on period costuming but also for providing very detailed instructions when it comes to constructing said garments. It comes with a 142 page How To booklet and pattern pieces that are a little more studier then tissue paper. Her pattern pieces are also made to make clothes that range from a size 2 all the way up to a size 30. This is why one of her patterns costs $50. Thankfully, Sharon had the pattern so it’s a cost that I didn’t have to experience but I will be getting one of my own soon. Preferably Margo’s entire set but that can come in time.

Anyways, this is the picture on the front of the envelope. The lady on the stairs will be the dress I will be working on.


Next step: fabric selection.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Trout Recreant Helllllooooo Verti! At last! The chance to rate one of my favorite people! Absolutely beautiful pictures. You are a strong, opinionated woman who is not at all afraid to express herself both verbally and physically. You have a strong sense of fantasy and mystery surrounding a drop dead beauty. You maintain an aloof intelligent exterior that we long to break through, but which might intimidate some men. It shows a complexity of personality that few possess. Based on these pictures, I am giving you an 8.4 on the official Trout Recreant Scale of Slutiness. You are a slut, but only in the best possible way, and any man lucky enough to see that side of you should count his blessings.

Vivianne Draper

that's so cool! good luck with that!

uh... about the rosary... you can't use polymer beads and pass the SCA authenticity snob test. just fyi

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Vertigo Paris

Thanks!

Yes, I am well aware of the SCA snobs. I've had to deal with them throughout my 12 year tenure within the Society. They can also suck my left toe. With that said though, I bought a rosary today that is very simple and will pass even the snobbiest of snobs.

Pictures will be coming soon!

Siyu Suen

Oooooo good project!! My mother makes historical costumes too and presents them at schools for a little extra cash, so I grew up with her taking on a lot of dresses like that I definitely suggest a velveteen or a heavy velvet for the outer dress, it has a great drape to it and a wonderful richness. A brocade for the underskirt would work beautifully too and provide a great contrast. The velvet for the main dress also has a nice solid stiffness for the corset area.

By the way, be careful with some historical patterns, as a lot of the time it's really historical, and will scale the body down to assume you're the size of a 16th century woman. My mother had some trouble with an Italian renaissance surcoat that was tight around the underarm and short in the torso, so make sure you take your measurements to compare them with the pattern. But if it's something more modern that's been adapted from a historical pattern you shouldn't have those troubles.

And lastly, if you're going to try that collar, good luck It's an absolute devil to stitch evenly, and you'd be better off finding a finished one online. It's kind of like an Obi, you know you could make it yourself, but it just makes it so much better if you buy one already made and tied

I hope I was helpful! I'll try and give any other advice I can think of, and if you have any questions I can ask my mumma

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Vertigo Paris

Aha, I knew I sensed a kindered spirit in there someplace!

Good lords, woman, I live in TEXAS!! Do you want me to DIE?! I will agree with you that velvets do drape quite lovely but that just isn't going to be an option here and be able to wear without dying of heat exhaustion. Not to mention adding about 20 - 30 more pounds of sheer weight to the dress. We are going to be doing some creative licensing when it comes to the dress itself. As in, there won’t technically be an under skirt, just the illusion of one. This helps to cut back on weight as well as the heat factor. If I were going all out authentic and going to be doing this for a contest of some sort then I’d deal but this is just for show. I’ll cut corners where I can without sacrificing the overall quality of the dress.

Already taken into consideration. Measurements are being taken tonight and then the muslin pattern will be adjusted to fit to me. My co-designer’s, Sharon and Illaria have worked with MA patterns in the past and have about 50 years of sewing combined between the two of them. I’ve never worked with this advanced of a pattern, mostly Simplicity and McCalls so I will be relying on their input heavily. I’ll have to post some of their work, it’s absolutely stunning.

Because of the Attifet I am currently working on, I am not sure the neck ruffle will work, or more to the point, one with that height. I am also a fairly short necked person so those aren’t all that flattering so we may either do a considerably shorter one or forgo it completely.

Thanks so much! Other avenues of experience and help is ALWAYS appreciated!

Vertigo Paris

Primary fabric has been acquired, washed and dried.

Now to haul it around and find the underskirt material and various trimmings.

I'll be cutting the front piece so that the main design (shown in the 3rd pic) is centered and the main focal point.

I lucked out with this fabric: 12.5 yards, $50. This type of fabric usually starts for a minimum of $10 a yard.

sezmra

What a pretty fabric!!

*looks forward to updates*

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Roxie Marten

I wish you lot of luck, It looks like it will be great. Myself i am lazy and do check book costuming. Beware of Calontir they hate late period

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Vertigo Paris

Life is good in the Barony of Bryn Gwlad, the shining star of the Kingdom of Ansteorra. Calontir can rot in their hatred.

Vertigo Paris

Step 2: Fabric Selection (cont.)

Secondary fabric chosen.

I wanted something striking to go against the creaminess of the brocade. I went looking around and wasn't finding anything that wasn't a) *yawn* boring or b) OUCH! My poor wallet!

So a little discouraged, I called off the hunt and went to a good friend's party and while I was there, she reminded me that I had a bolt of fabric in her closet that I had bought last year when we had started working on a civil war era dress. I had completely forgotten about it until she brought it out.

Then I squealed like a little schoolgirl. (I'm not sure who was more creeped out by the sound....me or her)



This isn't the dress we made but it's made out the of same material. A very luxurious brown taffeta. 10 yards of it. So once I got done with the party, I headed over to Mom's house and promptly serged the ends and washed/dried it. It's now rolled up on a spool ready for cutting.

Now the exciting part begins.

Step 3 - Design Placement (Fabric and Embroidery/Beading)/Cutting

Brenda Archer

That is awesome, good luck!

That lovely dress with the bustle reminds me of why so many Victorian era chairs are huge.

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Vertigo Paris

Step 3 - Design Placement (Fabric and Embroidery/Beading)/Cutting

Went to Mom's last night, threw it Elizabeth and Elizabeth: The Golden Age as inspiration and sat down with Nevarre to go over the various beading options.

Nevarre is one of the best bead designers I know. The designs he has come up with have been amazing. The stuff that he has done for his own outfits as well as his wife's leave me in awe. So I roped him into helping me. (Not that it took much, all I had to do was open the Fire Mountain Gem catalog....like drawing a moth to a flame. )

The primary focus was the center pattern of the bodice. (Shown in red in the picture below.)

Brenda Archer

Cool

Vivianne Draper

holy shit pearls have nothing on the crystals for expensive....

but it should look amazing and the weight should be good. You *should* knot after every bead but damn that's a lot of work.

Vertigo Paris

Step 3 - Design Placement (Fabric and Embroidery/Beading)/Cutting (cont.)





EDIT: Almost forgot. We also bought 5 smoked topaz hanging gems to string on 3 - 4 pearls so that the bodice will have some movement as well as some sparkle.

Brenda Archer

Wow.